This year we took a trip to Vermont for Thanksgiving. Pam picked out Little River State Park in Waterbury as a destination and we took off after breakfast on Thanksgiving day. The trip was easy and traffic was light. We arrived around 2:30 or so. We fumbled around a little bit in Waterbury looking for the park but, once we got there we were pretty psyched to see the place wide open and completely empty! Vermont leaves their campgrounds open in the winter and there hasn’t been any real snow to speak of so this place was totally accessible.
We drove around the entire campground, which is pretty large and many sites have water views. We ended up on the access road to the boat launch with a great view on Waterbury Reservoir but a little protection from the wind too. There was TONS of firewood on the ground from year end pruning at the campground. We got a fire going easily and cooked up some turkey breast and veggies on the grill and some potatoes on the cooktop. We had a wonderful dinner just after sunset and hung out by the fire for a while then went to bed!
Friday morning we got the coffee going and read a bit. Pam was inspired to cook up some leftover taters with bacon and then toss some eggs over them. Among the best Thanksgiving leftovers I have ever experienced! We chowed, hung out a bit more and decided to go for a hike on one of the trails that leave from the campground. We walked up the hill, past the lodge, where someone appeared to staying, to the trailhead for the Stevenson Brook trail.
The trail was super easy, flat, wide and dry for the most part. There had been recent work on the drainage and there were numerous streams coming down off the side of the hill we were climbing on. We passed through an evergreen forest for a while. I’m not extremely well versed on varieties of evergreen but I noticed tall hemlocks mixed with a few cedars here and there. Then we passed back into more birch mixed in with the evergreens. We were at the brook in about twenty minutes and there was a sign for a sawmill site about 1.1 miles up the trail. There was also a trail marker for a cutoff path which I assumed led back to the camp road in the other section of the campground. We agreed to head back.
Back on the camp road we noticed another road heading up the hill with a small building at the start of the road. There was an old sign on the front of the building with the headline “regulations” under which there was nothing. The building looked like the type of structure at the start of a toll road. I imagined a road to the summit of the hill and jumped around a bit with excitement…really…not just in my head…out loud and in person. Ask Pam. We climbed the road. Things were looking good as we came to a switchback. We took the turn and the road petered out in a clearing with a cement box poking out of the ground that looked like a water tank or sewage thing. I made some stupid comment about it being solitary confinement for bad kids at the campground that kinda passed under the radar and we headed back down.
We checked out a couple cabins on the way back to our site. These two looked brand new with nice metal roofs and clean fences out front. The cabins have a bed in them and that’s it. There’s a fire pit out front and a picnic table. We crossed the road to some sites that look out on the reservoir. I think site 19 looked like one of the best ones. I wondered if all the hills and berms between the sites were all man made from the stuff they dredged up to make the dam that created the reservoir.
Back at the site I cranked up the fire while Pammie cranked up some leftovers on the cooktop. Thanksgiving eve we had grilled a bunch of shrimp and made some mushroom risotto and, believe it or not, we had some leftovers so we brought them along. Pam brought out a couple of steaming bowls of risotto and shrimp porridge and we chowed as the wind chased the smoke and us around the campfire.
After dinner we packed up to make the trip to Montpelier to see a movie Pam had picked out. We cleaned up the campsite and took off. On the way out the road had loosened up a bit and was quite muddy. We stopped to look at the dam. There’s a turnout in front of the dam with a sign that tells a little bit of the history of the area. Just after the turnout for the dam view there’s a memorial for four soldiers who died in a fire at the site.
Back out in Waterbury we got on route 100 to head to Montpelier the roundabout way! We drove up 100 to Morristown before we realized we needed to go SOUTH! It was a beautiful drive with the mountains on our left and the sun getting low in the sky. When we got outside Morristown we realized we needed to go south so we did a u turn and in Morristown, Google sent us down route 12. This turned out to be a good side trip because in a few minutes we passed Lake Elmore State Park and there was a campground there wide open and welcoming.
We kept going into Montpelier and found a parking spot in town about a block from the State House. We hopped out to take a stroll and then look for some food. We were parked close to the theater where we were going to see “Wonder”. We took a look at the theater and it looked small, cozy and inviting. A block or two into our walk Pam started getting very cold but we kept going. She warmed a bit as we explored. It was flannel friday and the streets were crowded with shoppers and walkers and there were a few bums here and there too. We walked past the bar we were headed to eventually; Three Penny Tap Room. That looked inviting too. We passed another small theater that looked really cool. There was a small restaurant next door that looked inviting.
We turned around and headed for the tap room. Inside we got a seat right in the front window so we could see the folks passing by out on the street and keep an eye on the crowd in the tap room too. The beer selection was nice albeit loaded with double ipa’s on this particular day! We got some fries and smoked trout rillettes and a couple beers and proceeded to watch the scotch movies as my father used to call them; people passing, cars passing, etc. Good stuff. The food was delicious as were the beers, except Pam’s second which was a pilsner…can’t remember which but after the Foundation Epiphany double IPA she started with, it was a letdown.
On our way back to the theater we kept the Capitol building in sight as our destination and easily found our way. Inside, the line was starting to form. The lobby was small and old school and there was a well dressed gentleman selling tickets and moving through the chatty crowd quickly. The theater was small but nice and comfortable. We got seated and i went out for popcorn. Again, the crowd moved quickly and the girls at the snack counter worked through us efficiently. Real Cabot butter on the popcorn too! YUM!
Pam and I both enjoyed the movie which is about a kid that has multiple surgeries when he is a baby to cure some birth defects on his head. He is left with a rather deformed face and head and because of it, has been home schooled and hasn’t been out much. His parent decide junior high is the time to get him into a school and the story is about how the family evolves with this huge change. Pammie cried a bit, me too. Not as much as the lady behind us who had a group of friends supporting her and getting her through it!
After the movie we decided to head back to Lake Elmore to camp. It was about a half hour away but it was a definite camping site as opposed to driving around Montpelier to look for a spot. I preferred the sure thing on this night. The drive to Lake Elmore took us out of town quickly on route 12 north. It got dark and the road got windy and it was an awesome drive. The crescent moon followed us on the left and I was hoping the campground, which is at the north end of the lake, would have a nice view of the moon and the lake. We pulled into the campground, drove past the gate and went straight in on the road. As it turns out, the campsites are all to the right so I backed up and took one of the roads to the right up the hill. It was too dark to see much so I took a right into the tent sites and took the third site that came up on the right. It looked flat and easily accessible. When we parked I could see the road we drove in on directly in front of us but there wouldn’t be any traffic tonight for sure. It was very quiet and dark!
When we got out to turn on the gas and get setup we both marvelled at the stars! It was very clear above us and the milky way was very visible. The stars actually looked bright! I had to pull myself away to setup. On another trip out of the van I looked up for a while and, just as I turned to go back in, a shooter crossed a small patch of sky just above me.
We cranked up the heat, mixed a cocktail and talked about the day, the movie and anything else that came to mind. We were off to sleep shortly thereafter. I opened the shade on the slider so we could look out at the starts and we both fell asleep pretty quickly.
Saturday morning we were up early but snoozed a bit so it was 7:30 or so before we actually got out of our sleeping bags and started motivating. We made some coffee and had some fruit for breakfast. I read a little of “Pilgrim at Tinker Creek” to Pam. I’ve been reading this book for a LONG time. It’s very dense and Annie Dillard packs a LOT into every sentence. Sometimes I can only get through a couple of pages in a sitting because I have to ponder so much of what she says. One of my goals on this trip was to finish this book but it’s not looking good!
Today we’ll head home unless something else comes up. We’re packed up and on the road around 10:30 or so. We have a copy of the Vermont Gazette from DeLorme circa 1988 (!) in the van. It’s kind of useful but should be updated soon! I’ve been looking on the map and see there’s a secondary road that leaves route 12 practically right across from the campground. I’m thinking we’ll head back on route 15 for a change of scenery and go through Barre instead of Montpelier on the way back to 89. We turn right shortly after getting onto 12 south. The road turns to dirt fairly quickly and it’s pretty clear that there are a lot more roads here than are on the map. Let the adventure begin!
We wind around up in the hills and drive by some incredible spots with equally incredible views of the rolling hills. The road is getting wet and muddy in places so the party van is getting a nice coating of Vermont sludge on her sides. A couple turns this way and that and we wind up on route 15 heading towards Wolcott. Paved road now but more of the same beautiful views. Farmland with streams and rivers running through it all over the place. Most of these back roads follow a river at some point. Looking on Google as I write this I see 15 runs along the Lamoille River. I love watching the river as we drive and looking for spots to camp.
I stop at a convenience store at a crossroads near Wolcott, I think. I’m after more coffee. Pammie’s going to hang in the van. I go in and smell fried food and bacon and all that is good about life! I grab a coffee while I take a look at the menu. Breakfast sandwich? Ayuh, sounds good. I see there aren’t any pre-made so I go to the counter to order. I say “I’ll have a breakfast sandwich” and the lady stares at me. I say, “Okay, there are choices?…” and she nods her head…still nothing. So I say, “Egg and Ham?” and she finally says, “Okay, I’m going to help. English Muffin? Croissant? etc, etc” and things go a little more smoothly from there on. She turned out to be very nice but, when I went to the counter to pay while she cooked my sandwich, she screamed across the store, “HEY ???? (can’t remember the lady at the counter’s name who she was yelling at) YOUR COFFEE IS COLD. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME A PERSON HAS ASKED TO HAVE THEIR COFFEE MICROWAVED!!! CHECK YOUR COFFEE”. The lady behind the counter mumbled to herself or me or whoever would listen, “I don’t know why it would be cold. All I do is take it out of the pot and dump it in the thermos??” I grabbed my sandwich and hit the road. Pammie was quite happy to taste that it was cooked fresh. She enjoyed the story too.
Eventually we came into Barre. Nothing really caught our eye so we passed through. Outside of town a ways we pass an intersection with a sign for the “floating bridge”. Pam says, “you’re not even curious?” I admit I am so we pull a u turn and head back. As we get back to the intersection a truck makes a right in front of us in the same direction. It’s got an ad for “Stump Be Gone” stump grinding service on it. I make some stupid comment about “stump grinding” as we head up a steep hill on Route 65. The stump truck takes a right at the top of the hill but we press on. Shortly after, the road turns to dirt and then we come to a town which, checking Google now, is Brookfield. Then we drive by the entrance to the bridge where there is a piece of heavy equipment parked and the bridge is blocked off. I turn around in town on a steep, muddy little cut off and we go back and park in front of the loader and walk up on the bridge. The Floating bridge has been around for decades and has had many iterations, the latest of which was constructed of “high tech” floating material in 2015. But, the bridge was closed when we were there. Later we found out (and Pam had already figured out because she has common sense, unlike me) that it was closed for the winter. Ice and floating bridges don’t get along so well it seems.
Leaving town I took another route following the turn the stump grinding guy took. We were up on the ridge and could see 89 down on our right. We came out to route 65 and I turned east towards route 14. We came out south of where we pulled off on route 14 and continued heading south. In a mile or two or three Pam sees a hand written sign on the left for a brewery that is open today. Well, say no more, we u turn again and head up Chelsea Mountain Road. As we climb and turn and climb, we’re convinced we either missed it or the sign was a hoax. We hit the summit and start down to the right, still no other signs. Then we see another sign to turn down Dickerman Hill Road and, just down the road, behold a tiny craft brewery on the side of a hill in a field.
We walk in and there’s a tasting bar with a few taps. There’s a couple at the bar refilling some growlers and having a taste or two. The bartender welcomes us and asks if we’d like to try something and we say sure! Let’s try them all! They have four or five taps and we tried them all. While chatting with the bartender we find out her mom lives in Kittery and they were just there for Thanksgiving. They are very familiar with Tributary brewery in Kittery and know the brewmaster. Small world, eh?! We had a great hang and decided to buy a few cans of their Timber Rattler IPA and a half (not quite a double) because we wouldn’t be back any time soon to return the growler. The bartender tells us to stop at her friend’s glass blowing studio down the mountain and we plan to do so as we take off. What a great place: Brocklebank Brewery in Tunbridge, VT. Check it out if you’re up that way or make a special trip.
Heading further down the hill the road gets greasy again and the party van takes another mud bath. We make a turn or two and come up to the glass studio. We stop in and she’s giving a class which we watch for a moment then we head into the showroom where a young lady is reading a book and waiting for customers to stop by. We take a look around and everything is really nice. Glasses, lamp shades, ornaments, all kinds of beautiful stuff. We thank the young lady and head out. As we’re walking out into the yard we see a cat choking down what looks like the tail end of a mouse. Mmmm, crunchy!
Back out to the tar road we were getting a little peckish after our trip to the brewery. As we cruised down 110 to route 14 Pammie sought out victuals. In no time she had found a small barbecue place but we had to turn around and head up 95 to Randolph to check it out. NO PROBLEM! Google took us down some more back roads, through some more mud and mess and then plopped us right out before an exit for 89 north. We tooled up the highway about a half hour and then hopped off to find Vermont Maple Barbeque. As we got closer we were still out in the fields and Pam started to worry a bit. I said, “wait and see, this will be in somebody’s backyard” and, sure enough, as we came around a corner, there it was, out in a field behind a farmhouse. We pulled off the road into the driveway and no sooner had we parked than a dude came bounding out of the main house, greeted us and took our order.
We hung out in the yard while he cooked us a pile of barbeque and, in a flash, it was ready. We took off to find a spot to chow down. Just down the road we found a turnout a little ways off the road, by a farmhouse road, with a view of the river. We cracked Timber Rattler Beer from our brewery visit and got busy on a fine pile of pulled pork, ribs, chicken and fries. A perfect ending for a wonderful trip. Time to head home!