Category: Eurovan Travels

Follow the travels of the ’00 VW Eurovan Camper

  • Holley NY to Ostego MI, Ayuh

    Morning in Holley NY
    Morning in Holley NY

    We woke up and took a ride bike ride to the supermarket for some joe but we were up too early so we decided to pack up and grab a cup on the way out of town. Holley New York is a beautiful, peaceful area. I’d highly recommend a visit, but, we gotta move on!

    On the way out of town Pammie gets back to trip planning. Should we stop in Niagara Falls or head straight to Detroit? YES! Okay, Niagara falls it is. The weather is a little overcast with spotty rain here and there. The route out of Holley takes us  through a lot of farm country. This part of New York is very pretty and the traffic is minimal.

    We arrive in Niagara Falls nice and early so there’s plenty of free parking right in town on the American side. We park the bus and pull down the bikes and start to explore. A short ride to the visitor’s center proves fruitless. The signage is confusing and everyone wants to take our money. Being cheapskates on a frugal budget we decide to just wing it and see what happens. Getting around on bikes is really easy and fun so poking around without knowing where the heck you’re going is a great way to explore.We cross the bridge over to Goat island just as a small group of European cyclists blow by. They’re quite raucous and jolly, “whop, hay, ho, ya, here we go. Good Morning!” It’s infectious but they head right across the gridded bridge. Pammie and I, every bit as raucous and jovial with a tendency towards the more cautious, take the vacant sidewalk. Once we’re across the bridge the sidewalk takes a turn away from the road and leads directly over to the other side of the falls. There’s construction everywhere so there are fences and barricades and more confusing signage but, eventually we wind up on a nice outlook with an incredible view of the falls. We take some pics and hang around a bit and then hop back on our bikes to find another spot.

    Niagara Falls Beauty
    Niagara Falls Beauty

    Bikes give you a lot of freedom around Niagara falls. You can ride on the paths, as long as you yield to all the people, but you can also ride in the road, avoiding all the crowds and making getting around fun and quick! We took a footbridge across the top of the falls back over to a viewpoint on the other side. You caould see both sets of falls, all the boats down below the falls and the rainbow right in front of the falls that is formed by all the spray. I took a couple pics of Pammie on her bike. An Family asked if I would take a picture of them and then they took one of us. With that, we decided to head back to the car and get back on the road.

    Niagara Falls is incredible. A must see for sure. There’s plenty of kitsch and disgusting shit but the falls and the surrounding area are stunning. When we were there a LOT of stuff was torn up. You couldn’t walk or ride anywhere around the American side of the falls without running into a barricade, fence, pylon, tractor, burly worker, bobcat, etc., etc. I may be exaggerating a tad, but not much!

    We crossed over into Canada and headed for Deeeetroit City. Everyone thought we were crazy to want to go anywhere near Detroit. I played there back in the the day and had some fond memories of some stupid shit I did with a couple of my bandmates. Erin told us that she had enjoyed Detroit and that pretty much sealed the deal! Detroit, here we come.

    The ride across a little slice of Ottawa was pretty uneventful with the exception of the fact that our phones flipped over to a Canadian provider so we promptly shut them off. Unfortunately, this meant we were going analog with navigation and we didn’t bring an atlas. I hadn’t even considered it. Pam had thought of it but didn’t want to take up valuable space so, no maps. We stopped and picked one up and it actually felt a little weird but kind of nice to be holding and reading a map. I don’t know about you but I don’t have a gps thing and I don’t have any maps. I always navigate with google maps and rarely have any problems.

    Coming through customs on the US side was slow but uneventful as well. We waited in line for a while and I had daydreams of the radiator blowing up on the van like I had one do once on an old Rabbit I had while I was waiting in that interminable line to get onto Cape Cod . The radiator held up just fine but while we were waiting in line the guy next to said his car was running out of gas so he kept shutting the engine off. I told him we had a lot of supplies on board but no extra gas….aside from…ahem…nyuk, nyuk..I didn’t tell him that buy I’m telling YOU that because long about now you’re probably getting bored as hell and I thought a little potty humor might at least make ya chuckle.

    First Heidelberg Sighting
    First Heidelberg Sighting

    Coming into Detroit, I screwed up and missed an exit or two but that was no issue. We found an exit and started in the direction of the Heidelberg District. Another wrong turn or two and I started to pay closer attention! Things are pretty ugly in that neck of Detroit and I was getting a little anxious. One more correct turn and about a block down the road, we came across a blown out house with some wrecked cars, dead trees and graffiti everywhere. This must be the place! I pulled over and parked to the right. Plenty of parking available, in fact, not a car – that wasn’t broken down and dismembered – in sight. Pam stayed with the van and I ran across the street to take some pictures. I didn’t hang out too long because there was a dude on my side of the street kinda just standing there looking shifty, at least to my paranoid, white-ass MF self. When I crossed back over to the side of the street the van was on I realized that he was hanging at a bus stop and I was just being a stupid cracker. All the same, I figured I’d move the van around the corner before we left it to check out Heidelberg street. I turned her over, stepped on the brake, shifted…tried to shift…tried to shift…errrr. She won’t shift out of park. I keep quiet, shut her off, start her up again, hit the brake and…NOTHING. She’s stuck in PARK!

    I tell Pam, and, of course, she already knows something is wrong because she’s a lot smarter than I am and she knows when I’m trying to hide shit from her and she has radar and girlie voodoo or whatever it is but I swear she knows what I’m thinking a split second before I think it and only lets me think I came up with it because she’s nice.

    She takes it in stride. No problem, we’re in a shady part of Detroit, in a BIG, WHITE, VAN with all kinds of shit hanging off it and stacked on top off it that screams, “COME, HELP YOURSELF” and we can’t shift the damn thang into drive. We’ve got enough food, wine and beer to make it a few days but there’s no question we’ll have to take turns keeping watch because the boogey man will surely get us and all our shit and all they’ll find of us is a couple bones, an iphone cord, a Eurovan stripped to the CV joints and a couple of dirty pairs of underwear. WE”RE $%^&ED!!! I comment that perhaps PD – this is the Eurovan’s nickname, short for PamDemonium – is hot and once she cools, everything will be fine. Let’s go check out some art! We lock it up, and stroll on over to Heidelberg street.

    The Heidelberg visit was brief and tense. All we could think about was our pending doom in the van. We signed the yellow house, walked through a block and a half or so, took a bunch of pics and then headed back to the van. I tried the tranny and, no go, still stuck in park. So, we did what anyone would do in this situation, drank a beer and searched the interwebs; EUROVAN LOCKED SHIFTER. Much to my surprise, the third or fourth post had a response from a dude that said check to see if your brake lights work and, if not, it’s probably a faulty brake light switch. Pam hit the brakes, and, sure enough, no brake lights. I break out the tool kit, take off the plastic thing under the dash that keeps your foot from taking out all the guts under the dash, stick my bonehead up there and take a peek, fully expecting to be greeted with a tangle of wires and switches that would boggle a mind far superior to mine. Nope. Two switches. I wiggle the button that works off the brake lever, start her up, try the shifter and NOTHING! So, I try leaving it running and diddling the switch. On a Volksie of this vintage, you can hear the little thang that keeps you from putting it in drive until you hit the brake click when you hit the brake. That wasn’t happening. A couple more switch diddles and PRESTO, SAVED FROM A FATE WORSE THAN DEATH…I FIXED IT! WE’RE SAVED! We may have had another beer. Then we quickly departed DEEEEEEEETROITTT!

    Next stop. Who knows. A place to sleep. Let’s make some tracks.

    We make it to Ostego, Michigan. Pam spies a sign: Black River State Forest. Camping. SWEET! We take the exit, take a right at the end of the exit. Drive a half mile or so, take a left, drive another mile and a half or so and there’s a beautiful little state park with a bunch of campsites, a little lake, some hiking trails and bunch of other stuff we would never get to check out but if we were going to stay a few days, this would be a great spot too. We drive around the loop a few times, pick a spot and set up camp.

    The Eurovan is very easy to setup. If the site is level, all you have to do is park, pop the top, and commence to camping yourself. On this trip we have a couple lawn chairs strapped to a basket on the top of the van and a couple bikes on the back on a bike rack that swings away so you can open the back door without taking the bikes off the rack. If we take the chairs and the bikes off, it takes a little longer, but not much. It’s a perfect setup for us.

    We take a quick bike ride to the pond for a swim. The water is inky black and kinda spooky because you have no idea what is in there but there are a few people swimming and nobody’s getting dragged under water by monsters or anything so we decide it’s okay to take a swim. Truthfully, I’ll swim just about anywhere and if I get dragged under water by a monster, at least I’ll go doing something I love, right?

    After the swim it was pretty much, get a fire going, eat a quick, light meal and crash. Pammie hit the hay earlier than I did. I sat up, drank a couple beers and smoked a stogie. I had a brief bonehead moment when I went to get another beer. I left my half-smoked stogie on the end of the arm of the lawnchair. When I came back with my beer, I sat down and put my hand right down on the stogie. Ahhh, seared flesh. Poifect! GOOD NIGHT!

  • Heading out!

    Heading out!

    Bye House
    Bye House!

    Here we go! 11:00-ish as they say. All loaded up and Pammie is behind the wheel on the first leg of the journey. Bye house, be kind to your caretakers. Bye street, bye, bye, bye…..whoops! Forgot the leg pillow. Hi street, hi house, hi pillow. C’mon to Montana. Repeat.

    Smooth sailin’ now. Looks like the Google’s gonna take us over through Vermont? Whoops, told Pam too late, missed the exit. Bad navi! Oh well, there will be a couple more exits I think.
    Looks like the Google wants us to head Down 495 now. Okeedokee then. Off we go! I’ll let you know what happens.

    Pammie kicked butt and drove us all the way to Sturbridge Mass. A solid 2 hour effort in her first stint at the wheel with me mumblin’ and grumblin’ in the passenger seat when we hit a huge traffic jam just outside of Haverhill. Come to find out, it was a rather bad accident. I’ll shut up now! A little history of Sturbridge and the Mass Pike is in order here. History according to ME, that is.

    When the Charlie Kohlhase Quintet used to tour a bit, we’d pick up John Turner at his house in the van. He’d spend a fair amount of time adjusting the seat, mirrors and all the other shiite he wanted to adjust and then he’d drive us out of Boston and when we got the Sturbridge truck stop on the Mass Pike, which is about a 45 minute drive, he’d pull in give up the pilot’s chair. So, to me, the Sturbridge Mass truck stop is really the John Turner truck stop. So, when Pam said she was going to drive first when we left, I said, naturally, “are you going to make it to the John Turner truck stop?

    The Turner truck stop turned out to be the perfect destination because Miss Pam had just about had enough…but…i’ve been to there many times and it’s a shithole of gargantuan proportions so we decided to take the exit instead. Neither of us has ever been to Sturbridge Village so, let’s see what that’s all about, shall we? Pam jumped out at a nondescript parking lot. I saw the sign for Sturbridge Village but somehow missed the turn so I took a different turn instead. The road got a little interesting and then we passed a lake. We both saw an odd sign as I tore by, a fishing sign AND a wheelchair sign. Hmmmm, handicapped fishing hole?! Let’s check THAT out!

    First lunch stop
    First lunch stop

    Quick u-ie and bang a right and…ahhh…dirt road and a nice, breezy lake. A little further and we cross a little bridge with a large section of the lake to our left and the smaller part to right. A couple hundred more feet down the road we see a right that leads into a nice dirt parking lot right next to the lake. I park the party van and we commence to exploring the place. Right next to the lake, the origins of the crazy sign are revealed; a handicapped accessible dock, right over the water with places in the rails to park one’s fishing pole and enjoy the beauty of the lake. This may be the first handicapped fishing dock I have ever seen! Pretty damn sweet!

    Pammie whips up a nice lunch of ziti salad, ham and cheese sandwiches and cape cod potato chips accompanied by a nice cold Sierra Nevada Ale. I collapse in a stupor of warm, balmy breezes, incredibly beautiful scenery and the extended, relaxed company of my best friend and lover. This is the first stop, on the first day, of our first ever almost-cross-country road trip and it’s already sublime. We both savor the moment silently chowing down and taking it all in.

    After that brief slice of  bliss. We stroll around a bit and look for a place to take a dip. The water is pretty funky and there’s a LOT of lily pads so we decide to bag the swimming idea and get back on the road. A quick cleanup and we hit it. We consult the Google for our exit strategy and it takes us to route 20 instead of right back to the pike. GREAT! We pass through Brimfield, which is an “Antique” center of the universe when the antique shows are in town. Fortunately, they are NOT in town today. Don’t get me wrong, I like an over-priced yard sale about as much as an unexpected finger pinch from a pair of old rusty pliers, but I’m glad we don’t have to plod through an endless traffic jam of shitboxes piloted by deal seeking bluehairs.

    making wet tracks
    Making wet tracks

    We’re both kind of spacey as lunch digests and the beers kick in. Western Mass blows by in a hazy, early summer, steamy blur and, shortly, we’re back on the pike. Pammie takes a good gander at the back of her eyelids for a while while I get in the the groove of piloting the party bus. This baby is a cruiser for sure. Set it, forget it, and take in the sights! The sky turns quite black and shortly we’re sailing along in a sea of hail-size raindrops. It’s pelting! I love to drive in this shit so on we go. We’re trying to hit Holley New York tonight and it’s looking good.

    We hit Holley NY around 7PM. Pam has scoped the scene out and we head toward the Erie Canal where there is a small park with camping facilities and showers. We poke around a bit. Make a few navigational errors and, finally, wind up in a beautiful little park right on the Erie Canal. There are some signs on the bathroom that tell you to call the local police to get in after hours so we make the call. Within a few minutes, a young officer arrives. We inquire about camping in the parking lot with the lily-white Langley party bus and he’s a tad skeptical. “That thing is a camper?”. I invite him to take a look inside. When he does he kind of shakes his head in disbelief and then says, “I have to call the chief to check if it’s okay to camp in the lot.”

    While he checks, Pam and I both comment to each other about how nice a spot this is and how we think the officer is going to let us stay. Sure enough, we get the thumbs up so I turn the bus around so the bikes aren’t out in the middle of the lot. We decide to take a tool around town on the bikes to check out the Holley, NY scene.

    This a beautiful little town and it appears that there ain’t much going on a Wednesday night! We head back to the campsite to cook dinner. Pammie cooks up a wonderful dinner with hot italian sausage, peppers, mushrooms and ziti salad. We eat out on a picnic table in the park and are both struck at how quiet and peaceful this spot is. Hopefully we continue this streak of luck tomorrow!

    Down for the night
    Down for the night