Author: mattlang

  • Wednesday, July 22 – Sensory overload!

    The view out the dining room window this morning (Aharonian artwork too!)

    We had set the alarm for 4 AM to get up and go see the sunrise on the north rim. When we woke up it started raining so we wussed out. It turned out to be a beautiful morning but we snoozed anyway. We had home fries and Ployes for breakfast and then got rolling.

    The ride to the north rim from fire road 22 starts out in the meadows. Vast grassy areas that look perfectly mowed with the road staying mostly to one side. Past the meadows you climb and twist and turn and then you come out on the ridge at the top of the north rim. There’s the campground on the right and some turnouts and parking lots on the left. We stopped immediately and parked. Hopped out and started gawking. We hiked down a little path to a rock outcropping and stood there and listened to the silence. Watched the birds flying out over the canyon and took some pics. It’s too much to comprehend! The sheer size. The centuries of history you’re seeing etched into so much rock.

    We thought we were looking at the Grand Canyon but it was actually roaring springs canyon, which is spectacular too! We hiked back up and moved the rig to the visitor center parking lot. We checked out some info signs out front. It was pretty early – maybe 8:30 or so, so it wasn’t very busy. Most people were wearing masks and keeping a safe distance. All the signs referenced a “pocket map” but we couldn’t find any. I asked an employee and he said to try the lodge.

    The lodge was just waking up. The restaurant was not open and the gent at the desk said we could’t go down inside but we could look around from the lobby. He gave us a pocket map too. We decided to head outside for the view. We walked out on the patio where some folks were drinking coffee and eating breakfast. The view is spectacular. The rain was long gone. The sky was clear with high puffy clouds. The sun was hot but not too hot yet.

    We walked on a path behind the visitor’s center towards Bright Angel Point. There’s an incredible rock outcropping with a fence around it for peering into the canyon. We took a few selfies out there and marveled at the expansive view. It’s hard to grasp the extent of history you’re looking at when viewing centuries old rock layers descending to the Colorado River which isn’t even visible from this outcropping because it’s so far below you.

    The Bright Angel Point trail is an easy trail out to an incredible overlook on the north rim. Everywhere along the trail the views are mind boggling and breath taking. Every direction is a postcard view. On this day there were a few groups of people making their way out to the Point. There were two young couples. One of the guys had a nice camera and they were taking turns climbing up on scary peaks and outcroppings off the trail and shooting death-defying glamour shots. In most cases, I’d be doing the same thing but I was not compelled to risk my life for photo on this journey. It sucks to grow up.

    We walked around a bit more and then headed back to the camper. We had some brunch and then took off for points Northwest. While driving back out off the North Rim we decided to make it “Canyon Day” and head for Zion National Park in Utah. What the heck, right?!!

    The drive to Zion was beautiful and relaxing. The roads were pretty smooth so no dishes got jostled. Nothing fell on our heads from the attic above the engine room. A nice drive!

    At the entrance to the park you pay an entrance fee. If you have a large vehicle like ours you pay an extra fee to have the rangers stop traffic at the long tunnel allowing you to drive down the middle so you don’t rip your roof off. It’s pretty fun driving down the middle of the road in that tunnel with no oncoming traffic!

    The scenery in Zion is just as breathtaking as the Grand Canyon and amazingly different at the same time. The rocks have a lot of the same colors but a lot of them are smooth. There’s a lot more sand colored cliffs and ridges too. We stopped at a turnout and took a few photos in all directions and it started to rain while we were out on the rocks. The smell of everything changed dramatically and the color of the rock changed too. I swear some of started to turn greenish.

    The roads and tunnels in Zion are a feat of engineering that is beyond my comprehension. At the long tunnel it looked like there’s an tunnel next to the roadway for people to walk through to an overlook into the canyon below. We saw the mouth of the tunnel on the other side when we pulled over to gawk at the views. Words pale in comparison to the views. Towering, rounded hills in all directions.

    As you come out of the park you come to the nice little tourist town of Springdale. We tried to stop in a few places but Springdale is very conscious of the money they make off parking. We pulled over just south of town and went to pay to park but realized were were in the wrong type of spot for our vehicle. We drove on looking for a valid spot but couldn’t find ANY! See ya later Springdale!

    We found a produce stand further south and pulled over to check it out. While we were there a woman pulled in in front of us and saw the Maine license plate. She told Pam she had relatives in Maine! Small world. Mainers everywhere. Further outside of town we pulled over for lunch and to find a place to stay for the night. Pam had been trying to book a spot at a campground on Smith Mesa outside of Zion but her phone hadn’t been cooperating. During lunch we booked a spot at Smith Mesa Farm and, after we finished, we headed there.

    We drove into La Verkin to do some shopping. It was HOT! After loading up the supplies we turned on the navi to find out we had driven past the road to the campground. We backtracked to Smith Mesa road and started driving back up into the canyon towards the campground. We went up, and up. The road was a secondary road at this point with no center line. Then we came to the turn off. The entrance to the road was paved but soon the road turned to dirt. And soon it got hairy! Up, around, over, up, up, over, around! Pam was a little skeptical but the road was definitely wide enough fort vehicles and there were recent tire tracks so I wasn’t too worried. The Ford V10 wasn’t having any problems at all. After a mile or two of dirt, wide canyon road there’s a turnoff into the farm. The road gets a lot worse. You can see campers off in the meadows under trees, out in the open, etc.

    I wasn’t going to put the rig through too much off-roading to get to a spot. There is a field right next to the road that looked good to me so I drove off the road and worked the camper into a good, level position and we called it a day. There was a 360 degree view of mountain beauty. We got situated. Got the chairs out. Made a nice cool salad for dinner. Sat in our chairs and watched the sky while we ate. What an incredible day! Sensory overload!

    We lingered past sunset until the stars came out. After a while we were able to see the comet in the sky over by the Big Dipper. I got out the binoculars and looked at that baby until my eyes hurt. Incredible!

  • Tuesday, July 21 Grand Canyon bound

    Today we woke up at USA RV Park in Gallup, NM. We’re headed out today after I do a saxophone lesson. The time difference works out well with the east coast. The students can have a late morning summer lesson and I can work earlier in the morning. The connection was good this morning with only a few hiccups.

    We have some oatmeal for breakfast outside in the sunshine and then, while I’m teaching later on in the camper I see Pammie go zipping by the dining room window on the trail next to the campground. As soon as I’m done we load up the bikes, go over and dump the tanks and then head out.

    Pammie picked a route to the north rim of the Grand Canyon for us. I expected mostly highway travel as hwe have been doing for the past couple of days. We head out and take a rough road off Route 66 following a semi who doesn’t give a damn about the rough road. I’m a little more cautious about rattling the rig to bits. We take a left and we’re off on a two lane road with cattle guards every couple of miles. Pam tells me that most of the trip today is going to be on secondary roads. Yeeehaaa! This is gonna be fun.

    In a little while we hookup with route 264. It’s a four lane highway but it’s not loaded with trucks. We come to a semi large village – maybe St. Michaels? – I wasn’t paying a lot of attention to signs because googletta was guiding me.

    When we started to get out of town it started getting hilly and we started to see some white rocks and cliffs. We pulled over on one of the first big viewpoints to “rest”. I took a picture or two. A dude buzzed by on a motorcycle heading towards Gallup. The further we went, the more spectacular the scenery got. Huge vistas with giant mesas off in the distance. 

    We started winding through the Hopi reservation. The rock formations were mostly white with huge boulders and large cliffs. We climbed a large canyon and right on top, at the very edge in some cases, were Hopi homes. We stopped again to take in the steep canyon views and huge, flat, far-off vistas. The scenery was getting mind boggling. I could see why people would live here but what the hell would you do?

    The road narrows and gets bumpy. I’m talking NY City bumpy. This shit is relentless. But the scenery makes up for it. Everywhere you look, a stunning vista. We drive through evergreens too where once we were driving through what seemed to be the most arid and lifeless desert. I know, there are scrubby bushes and life all over the place, but just the changes in vegetation in the past hour or so of driving have been startling.

    We pass through Keans Canyon. The road winds down and down and then you cross the bridge and see the river waaaaay down in the canyon. We didn’t stop here but there were a few folks on the bridge. It looked like the state park side on the canyon was closed because of the dirty Covid. I was thinking that all of this would be way more crowded if things were normal. All the small Native American villages have signs saying closed to the public. Wear masks. Keep our people safe.  

    We’re getting tight on gas, we’ve got plenty. There are signs for Tuba City which is about 60 miles away but the hills are putting the old V10 through the paces for sure! We’ll be fine, no need to worry. Sit back and enjoy the bone rattling ride to Tuba City. When we finally see it off in the distance, we’re both relieved. As we come off the mesa into the town we see crops here and there with trees and other vegetation. The town looks like any other out here. Gas stations on all four corners. The usual stores, etc. We gas up and then I go across the street to try and find some decent stogies. I’ve been having a swisher sweet or two here and there and I’m missing a good old 5” robusto with a madero wrapper, if’n you know what I mean!

    We’re looking for a place to stop and eat. I pull over down the road from Tuba City(! – not a damn tuba in sight! I pictured Native Americans living in coiled white sousaphones and bright, brass, and silver tubas. What a let down!) in a turnout by the side of the road. While we’re fixing some food and then eating we notice a stand down the side road we turned off on. Pammie digs out the binoculars and sees it’s a dinosaur track viewing area!

    After lunch we drop the bikes and ride over. A Navaho gent (I asked) says the site is free to view but he can give us a tour too. Donations enthusiastically accepted of course. We take the tour. He has a little bottle of water and he highlights every track so they stand out. It’s pretty amazing how many tracks are at this site. The dude knows his jurassic park too. With every track he shows us, he refers to the movie. He shows us petrified vegetation, droppings, the whole gamut. A skeleton. It’s mind boggling like everything around here. Everywhere you look there are rock outcroppings that are thousands of years old! 

    We pay the gent and Pammie buys a necklace from his sister. He points out his home back up the side road and it looks like a llittle oasis in a sea of dry, hot rock. He says they grow a lot of crops beck there and there’s a spring to water the crops and provide drinking water. The water bottle he used to highlight the tracks contained water from the spring. We both noticed his hand was in a a bandage and his arm looked pretty mangled. Neither of us aged what happened but we wished we had when we both talked about it later! 

    After lunch we hammered to the campsite Pammie picked out for us. She found one on FreeCampsites.net near the north rim of the Grand Canyon. 264 eventually hooked up with 89 outside of Tuba City. We headed north with a huge rock formation on our right and then we we eventually took a left on alt 89 and started to go up over big plateau onto the top where there were a bunch of open meadows. Eventually we came to fire road 22. A mile or so of washboard dirt road later we turned off into a nice, level campsite. Pam Langley’s Tour Service does it again!

    After getting setup we took a bike ride on the main road. Up over the closest hill and then down the other side. It looked liked we could have gone over and down many more hills but we went back. We cooked up some dinner and then took a hike up the smaller road past our campsite. We followed it to a really nice, secluded site that we probably would have driven to in the Eurovan but the new rig might have had a problem or two with the road. Even further in on the same road there was a very steep trail up to a lookout over some of the hills below. We could have hiked quite a bit more but we decided to call it a night.